This last trip gave Maggie and me a great opportunity to spend a lot of time with the grandkids. I started thinking about what advice I would give to them on how to live their lives. (Not that they’ve asked for advice, but you know, just in case.)
I thought about it a lot, and I couldn’t improve on Bruce Lee, who said,
“Be like water making its way through cracks. Do not be assertive, but adjust to the object, and you shall find a way around or through it. If nothing within you stays rigid, outward things will disclose themselves. Empty your mind, be formless, shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle and it becomes the bottle. You put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot. Now, water can flow or it can crash. Be water, my friend.”
The way I interpret this is that you don’t know what the future will bring. You don’t know which of your abilities and interests will be useful to you along the way. The only thing you can do is develop yourself as best you can and try to be ready for whatever happens. When things happen, you can’t wish the situation away or apologize for not being ready. All you can do is take what you have and fully apply yourself to the present situation. Nobody can tell you how to do that, it’s completely up to you.
So, it’s up to you kids. Your Granna and I will continue to make the path as easy as we can for you, but only you can guide yourself along the way. Good luck.
Sorry is the magic word in Ireland. You can say “Sorry!” if you step on someone’s foot; “Sorry…” to get by someone in a crowd; if you didn’t understand what was just said, “Sorry?” will get them to repeat it; and you can summon the waitress with an insistent, “Sorry.” The last one is the hardest to get, but easy to repeat once you’ve heard someone say it right.
Sorry is a great universal word. It adds a touch of kindness to sometimes difficult interactions, and puts everyone in a more compassionate frame of mind. It’s too bad we don’t have a similar word in the U.S. We’d be better off if we did.
Carry an umbrella. It rains a lot here, so if you commit one hand to an umbrella, you’re turning yourself into a one-handed person. Better to put on a rain jacket and have both hands free to do whatever. Be grumpy. The Irish continually amaze us in how friendly, outgoing and helpful they are. Whether it’s resolving the language barrier between Irish English and American English; negotiating a one-lane road that has become an impromptu food trailer court at a combined children’s football camp and horse show; or simply explaining to an ignorant foreigner how to get along, the Irish maintain a cheerful equanimity that’s absolutely inspiring. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: get along, go along, and apologize when that doesn’t work out. Look left while crossing the street. Good way to look like a dead tourist. Irish drivers will often stop, sometimes even in the middle of the block if you look like you’re about to cross the street, but you don’t want to trust your life to that driver being Irish. He might be another ignorant American in a rental car.
Speaking of that, I’ve decided to follow the Ted Lasso model of foreign relations: I can’t help being an ignorant foreigner, but I can help being a jerk about it. Better for me to leave my preconceptions at home, relax and join in the fun.
In advance of our trip to Ireland this Summer, we’ve found some family-friendly attractions in Dublin. Here’s a list of what we have so far, in no particular order:
Normally Maggie and I have a wide selection of places to walk; Austin is loaded with city walks, park trails and interesting neighborhoods. Nowadays, with everybody on shutdown and social distancing, our options are more limited. The parks and trails are open, but often so crowded it’s hard to keep enough distance from jogger, cyclists and other heavy-breathing people. We’ve gone from the City of the Violet Crown to the City of the Virus Cloud.
Maggie and I have adjusted by shunning downtown and the hike and bike trails in favor of the many interesting neighborhoods, some of which we’ve never explored before.
Hyde Park. Austin’s original suburb, dating from 1891. Today it’s a mixture of Victorian mansions from the turn of the 20th century and more modest homes from the 1920’s and 30’s. Except for the hulking mass of the Hyde Park Baptist Church, there are very few newer buildings. Looking at the old houses, you can see that the builders gave each one a distinct personality, even with the cottages and bungalows. It’s great for walking because there are many shady streets, not a lot of traffic and interesting houses and yards to look at. Most blocks have sidewalks, but they can be intermittent, stopping and starting up again on the same block. Hyde park is surrounded by other walkable neighborhoods: for variety, we sometimes drift across 38th Street into the North University area, or across Duval into the Hancock neighborhood. This whole area is our “go to ” destination when we want to get out of our neighborhood.
French Place. The houses in French Place go from about the 1960’s to modern times, but most are from the 60’s and 70’s. The yards are mostly neatly trimmed: a few are messy, but many are spectacular, especially this time of year when everything is in bloom. Actually, when Maggie and I walk, we start at about French Place and Manor, and we can go all the way up to Airport Blvd. (If you look at a map, the whole area is called Cherrywood, but we think of the part south of 38 1/2th Street as French Place and north of 38 1/2th St as being Cherrywood.)
Rosedale. Another “old” Austin neighborhood: lots of cute houses dating from the 1930’s and 40’s, families with little kids playing on the sidewalks and in the streets (at least, while we’re all on lockdown). For walkers, the big attraction is shade: several of the streets have trees that tall enough to grow all the way across and meet in the middle, a rare treat in Austin and welcome respite from the sun. Not a lot of sidewalks, but not much traffic, either.
Travis Heights. Our old stomping grounds, and a fine place for a stroll. A little hilly for the mobility challenged. Charming old houses (some dating from the 1930’s) interspersed with modern construction; usually well done but sometimes a bit much. Plenty of shade, but sidewalks are sometimes lacking, so you have to be careful when walking. Stacy Park cuts through the neighborhood north-south, but the trails can be crowded these days.
Mueller Neighborhood. The old airport was demolished twenty years ago and is now the site of a planned neighborhood. You might never know the airport was there, except for the control tower, standing as a memorial, and the airplane hangars, which are now rented out as sound stages to film studios. The planning was well executed with ponds, parks, sidewalks and trees. A fine place to walk, but the trail is unavoidable in spots, which can put you uncomfortably close to your fellow walkers. Normally this would be a welcome diversion, but right now it’s sometimes hard to maintain six feet of separation.
Clarksville. Two hundred years ago, when the Pease Mansion was the center of a plantation, Clarksville was the where the enslaved workers were quartered. The city edged them out by not providing paved streets or sewers, and by the 1970’s Clarksville became a nearly all-white neighborhood; the only remnants are the tiny whitewashed church and some houses with small sizes and odd shapes. Today it makes for interesting walking, engaging the mind as well as the senses.
There are lots of other places we’ve found, but these are the best so far. We hope this list inspires you to get out and explore your surroundings. Just remember to always be safe.
Back in Austin, Maggie and I are getting around and avoiding the heat by riding the bus. It’s usually pretty uneventful, but coming home last night, the bus stopped at the University of Texas and let on a delicate young woman carrying a roll of chicken wire. We didn’t think much about that, but then a middle aged woman boarded carrying a tree branch, which she laid on the seat beside her as she rummaged through her enormous purse.
It turned out she was looking for her bus pass. In the mean time, Maggie saw a daily bus pass by our feet, so she picked it up, saw that it still had some time left on it, and gave it to the woman to use until her pass turned up. She thanked us profusely and gave us a cheery good-bye when the bus got to our stop, along with the bus driver, an introverted woman we had struck up a conversation with, and a guy in the back we hadn’t noticed until then. We never figured out what the branch and the roll of chicken wire were for. We’ll add that to life’s mysteries.
Pedro, our favorite waiter at our favorite Lisbon coffeshop, Copenhagen Coffee Lab, gave us a list of his favorite places in Lisbon. Unfortunately, he didn’t give us the list until a couple of days before we left, so we’ll have to save most of them for next time. Here’s the list, just as he gave it to us:
Museums
MAAT, the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology; Pedro’s favorite museum, but we never went.
Restaurants
Muralha – try the Bacalhau à Brás; in Alfama
A Merendinha do Arco (Portuguese Tasca, Gambas à Guilho are amazing) on Rossio St.
Coffee Shops
The Hill
Hello, Kristof
Comoba (overpriced for Lisbon, but really nice food)
A Janela da Voz Do Operário
Manteigaria – best custard tart [Pasteis de Nata]
Nivà (Principe Real)
Davvero (Alfama, Cais do Sodré)
Best Beaches
[Pedro is a good-looking 20-something Brazilian guy, so we’ll call him the expert on this.]
Portinho da Arrábida
Galapinhos
Cabana Do Pescador (Costa da Caparica, best sunsets)
Ribeira Do Cavalo (Best one, but with a 15 minute trail walk)
Paulo, our host, also had a list of recommendations, most of which we made, but a couple we missed:
Solar Do Vinho Do Porto – the place to go to taste Ports
Mafra National Palace – enormous palace of João V, in Mafra, a 45 minute bus ride from Lisbon
So that’s the starting list for our next trip – or yours. Boa Viagem!
The Algarve is the southern coast of Portugal, where the best beaches and resorts are scattered along the coast, between the lush green hills and brilliant blue water. It’s been on Maggie’s list of magical destinations for a long time – since her days of tearing her hair out working for Harris in Florida. It’s not just the beach; the Algarve has a mystical attraction of being shielded from the daily struggle to scratch out your place in this world.
We finally made it there, and the Algarve did not disappoint. Even a couple of retirees like us could appreciate the vibe of a place that’s all about relaxation. The ocean and beaches are there, alongside the old world charm of castles and villas, all as beautiful as expected. We took an all day van tour from Viator (Western Algarve Small-Group Day Trip to Sagres, Lagos and Silves). Tiago, our tour guide, gave us insights into Portuguese history and culture that you just can get out of reading tour books.
We liked Faro a lot: the town itself is pretty small and fairly quiet: there’s no beach scene, since the coastline is mostly taken up by a natural park and bird sanctuary. There was live music everywhere: rock, jazz, singer/songwriter, even a festival of African music; In Lisbon, we had gotten to think that Portuguese music was all about Fado. We like Fado, but we were still glad to see that there’s more kinds of music here.
For a cool city with nice beaches, restaurants and night life, Lagos is the place to be. From Lagos, we took a boat trip to the Ponta da Piedade, where there are cliffs, caves, grottoes, and little pocket beaches to explore. The boat driver really knew his stuff, whirling around a point and flying right up to the mouth of a cave before bringing the boat to a full stop and motoring gently inside. He wanted to make sure that we saw each and every rock or bump that somebody thought resembled a camel, and elephant or Michael Jackson. That was fun at first, but I just wanted to take the pictures that I wanted, so I started ignoring him. He apparently thought that I had gone blind or stupid, interrupting his patter to say, “Sir! Sir! Do you see the camel? [Yeah, yeah I see it – now if that sailboat will just come out from behind that rock..] NO, THERE! TO THE LEFT! [OK OK, I’ll take a quick glance to the left and wave at him..] NO, FARTHER TO THE LEFT! Now I would feel bad about being the idiot holding up the tour, so I would put down the camera, look farther to the left, see the camel, point, and let him motor on to the next sight and repeat the whole process. There were fewer interruptions as the tour went on; either because I got better at faking it, or he gave up on the stupid American, I don’t know which – but it worked out for everybody and we all had fun.
At the western end of the Algarve is Sagres: the most southwestern point in Europe. It’s beautiful and the scenery is dramatic, but unfortunately shrouded by fog while we were there. The thing to do there is to watch the sun set, but for that you really need a car and be able to plan your trip for a clear evening – which we had neither, so we made the best of it while we were there.
Our only regret for the Algarve is not staying long enough. Who knows – we may be back some day. Maggie and I both certainly hope so.
We have been to several museums in Lisbon. We read the tour guides and places “not to miss” – and have concluded that some of them you might want to miss. 🙂 Anyway, we agreed (mostly) on our favorites.
Our top 3 in no particular order, since we could not agree on the order. (Whew, that was an easy solution!)
1. The Gulbenkian Museum – hands down, our favorite museum in Lisbon! It features an art collection from ancient Egypt to Impressionism to Art Nouveau. Don’t miss this one. This picture is from a temporary exhibit on Islamic art, which was breathtaking.
2. The Aljube Museum of Resistance and Freedom – Housed in a former prison, it provides information about Salazar’s rise to power. Both of us are old enough to remember some of these historical events. We loved the story of Salazar’s mechanic, who helped some prisoners escape by driving them out of the prison in Salazar’s car! Talk about balls!
Resistance Cell during Salazar Regime
3. The Maritime Museum – Being history lovers, this museum was one of our favorites. It covered the “Age of Discovery” with exhibits on ships and navigation equipment from this crucial period in Portuguese history. We loved the stories of when Portugal was the power house of the world, in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Maggie With Henry the Navigator
If you have time, you might also want to check out these next museums. They were secondary in our opinions to the ones listed above, but were still well worth seeing.
4. National Tile Museum – lots of lots of beautiful tiles, but the most dramatic exhibit is on the top floor – a panorama of pre-earthquake Lisbon. We thought the map was fascinating, but you don’t need a museum to see tiles in Portugal – they’re all over the place in the old parts of the cities.
Clay at Lisbon Panorama – Tile Museum
5. Fado Museum – We knew very little about this musical genre, so we wanted to learn more about it before going to a live performance. I think learning the history of the music, the instruments and the performers enhanced our appreciation of the music. I would recommend it.
6. Banksy Exhibit – OK, not technically a museum, but a temporary exhibit. I wanted to include it because we enjoyed it so much. It was supposed to pose the question, “Genius or Vandal?” but naturally it led you to believe the genius part. We loved seeing the story of this controversial segment of the artistic world and one of its most influential creators!
And now, the list of museums that you might want to go to, but we just were not as excited about after visiting. A lot has to do with our interests vs. your interests, so you may go to one of these museums – you might even rank one of them as your favorite.
7. São Roque Church and Museum – Build in the 16th century, this church has absolutely stunning gold and precious metals work, but we had a hard time understanding how they justified the expense, when so many Portuguese were ignorant and starving at the time it was constructed. We didn’t feel very spiritual during the visit. We’ve been to other cathedrals where we felt uplifted by the art and architecture, but in this one we just felt weighed down by all that gold.
8. Monastery of Jeronimos – Giant, impressive 16th century white limestone church and monastery. My advice: skip the museum and go to the church, where you will see Vasco da Gama’s tomb. We don’t understand why so many tourists spend the hours in line to see the monastery, when the church is free and much more rewarding.
9. Museum of Ancient Art – Artwork, mostly Portuguese, from the 15th and 16th centuries. Neither one of us thought that this was worth the time, especially if your visit to Lisbon is short. The exhibits were heavy on Medieval religious art – not our cup or tea, since it’s the same mythology repeated over and over. Clay did spend some time in front of the Hieronymus Bosch painting, “The Temptation of St Anthony” just because it’s so crazy.
Other than that, there are rooms and rooms of plates, cups and other tableware. Amazing, but the whole display was overwhelming. We did like the Japanese Nanban screens that depicted the arrival of the Portuguese in Japan. The artists didn’t draw in linear perspective; they drew the more important elements larger than others. So here you can see that they thought a lot about the sailing ship and officers, but not much about the crew.
So there you have it: our inexpert opinion. Feel free to add your comments, we’d love to hear from you. If you haven’t been to Portugal, feel free to come and form your own opinion. I hope you’ll find your trip as rewarding as ours has been.
We’ve been in Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve for three weeks now, which is not enough time to say we are experts on Portugal, but we have come up with some observations about the country, the people, and some things it would be good to know before traveling here.
We’ve grown fond of the Portuguese people. In general, they are gregarious, boisterous, warm, tolerant and proud. They love to be outside – having a party or just hanging out. I don’t know when we’ve been to a place where so many people are mixed race. Part of it is the proximity to Africa, I’m sure part of it comes from their history, but from an outsider’s point of view, they just don’t seem to spend a lot of energy on their neighbors’ origins. We could learn something from that.
Fado music is amazing – we love it, even without understanding the words. It has the energy of flamenco and the heartbeat of the blues. Lisbon is not much of a “total” music city; unless you go to a concert, about the only kind of music is Fado. In the Algarve, there’s more variety, at least in the summer: classic rock, African, jazz, singer/songwriter, etc.
Sintra: the best day trip from Lisbon, so far. If you’re going to the Pena Palace, you must leave early (we caught the 8:41 train out of Lisbon) or wait in a loooong line. Best to avoid Sat/Sun when the locals go, and Monday when the museums in Lisbon are mostly closed so it’s crowded with tourists.
Being over 65 is wonderful: ½ price on many entrance fees and on the intercity train. We have a “cheat” system: Maggie buys the tickets, shows here ID if necessary, we take the two senior rates if they give them to us. It works in museums, but we don’t do it for the train, where there’s a big fine if you’re caught.
The gun laws are strict, so you don’t walk around thinking about what nut case has a gun. Police are seldom seen, except at large public gatherings. We feel very safe where ever we go. The only worry, and it’s slight, is to watch for pickpockets when you’re in a large gathering of tourists.
Air conditioning: most places don’t have it, and don’t need it. Summer highs can be in the 80’s, but lows are the 60’s, so people leave their windows open in the cool parts of the day and close them in the afternoon. The humidity is very low, so in the city, people dry their clothes on clotheslines strung in front of their windows. there are not many secrets here.
Food: there are small markets everywhere that all have some products: produce, wine, bread, cheese and maybe cereal, milk. Food prices are low, but not a huge variety. Same for restaurants: good quality, low prices, but in Lisbon there’s not a lot of variety: lots of Portuguese places, some Italian, but it’s rare to see a Chinese place, or Indian, French, etc. We spotted a Mexican restaurant in Lisbon and made a bee line; it was pretty good, although their hottest sauce was just a shade above mild.
Fish – except for Iceland, Portuguese eat more fish than any other country! Huge variety of salt and freshwater fish, shellfish. Grilled sardines everywhere this summer, because the catch was good. Four make a meal; always served with peeled boiled potatoes and small salad.
Wine: there’s never a bad one, and it’s almost always very inexpensive. Restaurants pour a full glass every time.
Beer: not much of a beer scene except maybe in Lisbon. We did find a craft beer place in Faro, and the waiter told us about a small annual beer festival there, but it wasn’t going on while we were there.
Public transportation in Lisbon goes everywhere and reliable. Buy the Zapping card to use and refill as needed. The Zapping card works on buses, subway, trams, trains and ferries, and surprisingly, on the trains to Sintra and Cascais as well.
ATMs are everywhere, which we needed because many restaurants don’t take credit cards; or they do, but the system is broken today – always broken today.
Algarve is amazingly beautiful. We spent two nights, but could have stayed longer.
Lisbon is big, modern, cosmopolitan city with old neighborhoods to explore, too.
Porto is beautiful, but we ran out of things to do after a couple of days. We didn’t take a tour of the Douro valley, but we probably should have.
Dogs are not as common as in France or US here in Portugal.
Clay and Maggie Travel 